To start Iff's six-week summer holiday, we spent a couple weeks in Denmark. In keeping with our "no fixed address" plan, we got there without flying. Woo-hoo!
We got the train from Aberdeen to Newcastle and a bus out to the overnight ferry. We managed to sleep for 14 hours on the ferry, waking up when we docked at Amsterdam. We got a bus into Amsterdam and had a lovely day walking around. Highlights included all the footie decorations (the World Cup was going on), the lovely zoo (with a junior elephant!) and aquarium (with eels - boooooooo) and hanging out in a park where local talents sang such varied songs as the theme song from "Duck Tales"...surreal. Then we grabbed dinner stuff from a grocery store before getting on the late, overnight train to Copenhagen.
We were in Copenhagen for five days, and the first three days we ran ourselves ragged seeing all the touristy stuff. We had a lovely time despite all the mobs of tourists (locals too perhaps!) and high price tags on everything. We found some really gorgeous veggie cafes and lovely parks to relax in. One of our highlights was resting in the Kongens Have after a day of walking our feet off; we found a group of violinists practicing in a corner of the garden, so we laid down on the grass and enjoyed the music. It was beautiful. Tivoli was as charming as all the guidebooks led us to expect. The people we encountered in Copenhagen were so nice and helpful, which we really appreciated. In the last couple days there, we ventured out of the city to places like the Danmarks Akvarium, which was small but amazing. All in all, we had a great time and managed by the end to find a balance between seeing "everything" and just relaxing. Lovely.
Then it was time for Jutland. We hopped on a train to Aarhus, where we picked up an adorable wee convertible for exploring the island. We headed first to Mariager, a wee fjord town north of Aarhus. It was so lovely! Its cobbled streets, wonky houses and abundant roses charmed me to no end. I could have stayed there forever. Alas, we had other places on our itinerary, so we headed on to Skagen and Grenen way up in the north. There we hit the lovely beaches. It was so hot, and the water felt gorgeous! But the real highlight beach-wise came next, when we headed to Rubjerg Knude Fyr, a giant sand dune with an abandoned lighthouse in it. The sand was so soft and clean, and from on top of the dune it seemed like we could see the whole world. Glorious!!! All the water around the dune sparkled, and Chris had a ball hurling himself off the top of the dune, rolling down all the sand to the ground below. We LOVED it. Thank you to Mogens for the tip!
We then hightailed it to the hostel we’d booked in Nykobing Mors. We were running late, especially after the “bridge” short cut we thought we could take turned out to be a ferry which wasn’t running then. We couldn’t find a pay phone anywhere and were frantic to phone the hostel to arrange a later check-in. (At another Danish hostel we’d stayed in, we saw some people arrive after check-in; they had to sleep in their car!) We finally asked in a shop where the nearest pay phone was. The woman there laughed but luckily was kind enough to let us use her phone, and the woman at the hostel agreed to leave our keys out for us. Whew! We arrived at the hostel just in time to watch the final World Cup game and cheer on Spain.
The next morning we thought to go for a swim; our hostel was right on the beach. But we saw lots of jellyfish and even a surly-looking crab in the water so just took some pictures instead. We then headed to the nearby, medieval Spottrup Castle with its gorgeous medieval-style herb garden and rose trellis garden. The whole place smelled like herbs and roses, and there were loads of bright blue dragonflies hovering over the moat. It was utterly charming. But then it was time for the reason we’d come to Denmark: Kai!
Kai is our favourite rhino. He was born in Edinburgh Zoo, and we watched him grow up enough to challenge the authority of his parents and then get shipped off to Denmark’s Givskud Zoo. We visited him there a few years later and were delighted to see him in a really big, gorgeous savannah enclosure with other rhinos and antelope-type animals. That was several years ago, and in the years since then we’ve wondered how he’s doing and whether he might even be a dad. It was time to find out! We got to the zoo and went straight to the rhino enclosure. There were six gorgeous rhinos out there, but we didn’t know which one was Kai. There wasn’t a keeper around who we could ask, but we took a guess and were happy to see that all of the rhinos seemed to be in a great place. We were really happy with the state of things and decided not to seek out information in case we heard something that would burst the bubble!
The next day we went to Legoland. We were drawn to it because Legos are Danish and we’d heard that there are really cute Lego sculptures to be seen there. Are there ever! There’s a whole area full of Lego models of landmarks from all over the world, many of them with moving parts. There are Lego sculptures all throughout the park and really cute rides as well. We had a ball!
The next day we had nothing planned, so we decided to go see Kai again. This time we were there for a talk by a rhino keeper. The talk was in Danish, and there were lots of other visitors there. We waited until the talk ended and the other visitors had gone, then we asked the keeper which rhino was Kai. Luckily she spoke excellent English, but we were gutted when she explained that because Kai and another rhino don’t get along well, they are separated and take turns being outside each day; today was Kai’s turn to stay inside the rhino house while all the other rhinos were outside. We were especially gutted when we realised that two days ago when we visited the zoo, Kai wasn’t outside either; we’d missed him during both days we visited the zoo, and we were leaving tomorrow before the zoo would even open!
It turned out that Kai is this keeper’s favourite rhino, however, and she could tell how gutted we were. We explained that we’d come from Scotland and planned our whole holiday around seeing Kai. She was so moved by this, she snuck us into the rhino house to see Kai! We couldn’t believe it! Our baby rhino now weighs two tons! He was delighted to see the keeper; he knows her by sight and recognises her voice and was happy to put his head through the bars to be petted and to eat the apples she had for him. She even let us feed him some apples and scratch him behind the ears! She stressed that they do not cuddle the animals in the zoo, but she’s allowed to pet and feed him enough that he trusts her and lets her get close when he needs to be examined.
We couldn’t believe our luck in getting so close to him. Our little baby rhino has grown so much, but he’s still like a little boy. He threw a wee tantrum each time the keeper paid more attention to us than to him, stomping all around his enclosure. The rest of the time we were with him, though, he had his tail curled up, and the keeper explained that he does this when he’s happy, just like a pig does! And the rhino he’s being kept separate from is a young girl rhino (two thirds the size of him) who attacks him when he gets near her! He’s only being friendly! Hopefully she’ll chill out soon. He’s not a father yet, but hopefully that will change in the near future. When it was time for us to leave the rhino house, I couldn’t thank the keeper enough. It was such a special experience, and I’m thrilled to know he’s in such good hands.
The next day, still giddy from our Kai experience, we went back to Aarhus to return the car and spend our last night in Denmark. Aarhus is a lovely town, smaller and less crowded than Copenhagen. We relaxed there until the next morning, when we caught a train back to Copenhagen. We had the afternoon there, so we mostly relaxed in Kongens Have. We got the overnight train back to Amsterdam and whiled away a few pleasant hours there. We watched a boys’ football tournament in one of the main squares and browsed a big, colourful market, where we picked up dinner stuff for the ferry. Then it was a bus back to the ferry, the overnight ferry back to Newcastle and finally the train back to Aberdeen.
The two weeks went by quickly, but we had a great time. We’re already looking forward to a return trip!